A more detailed version of my article published in Hürriyet Seyahat
East While the Black Sea season was a route that I always skip with its summer season, I suddenly found myself on the Black Sea roads.. Everything was a normal trip at the beginning, but I came back as a person in love with the Black Sea.. My journey, which started with a group of photographers and people I never knew, turned into a fairy tale. It was an adventure that those who did not go could not understand.
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I’m on the East Black Sea Road
Samsun from Istanbul We reached by land voyage. Our ancestor’s Bandırma ferry and house in Samsun are worth seeing. Then we went to Ordu Boztepe. You take a cable car from the city center.. Traveling over the roofs is really fun. A round-trip ticket is 10 liras, 6 liras one way.
I buy one-way. I planned to go down with a paraglider, but it remains a dream.. there is too much fog. We collect hazelnuts. We are going quickly as we are thinking of staying in Giresun.. It wouldn’t be possible without having a fish feast here.
The taxi driver disappeared on the way back to our hotel, I don’t think I’m still in Ordu, learning that we are in Giresun is another story.. Traveling all night must be like visiting three cities in one day.
After the magnificent view of Giresun castle in the morning, we go to the villages of Trabzon with the recommendation of our driver.. Our first meeting with lush tea gardens. We are learning to collect tea.
Uzungol
Then we head towards Uzungol. These are the most well-known spots in the Black Sea.. Uzungol is a complete disappointment.
I read it but I didn’t expect this much. They completely turned the lake. It is very difficult to find a parking space from vehicles.. There are Arab tourists everywhere.
Everything is in Arabic. There is even an amusement park. There are so many people. Restaurants expensive, uninteresting. We couldn’t stop at the place that sees Uzungol from the top.. It was raining and it was getting dark.
Ayder Plateau
We are walking along the banks of Fırna Creek, historical bridges, lush green mountains whose tops we cannot see, and houses visible between those mountains. Of course, there are Black Sea folk songs in the background.
The famous Ayder Plateau is next. On the way, we meet the famous rain of the Black Sea. That way it would only be a matter of time before it started raining and flooding.. Our Black Sea driver, brother Süleyman, was very worried, but fortunately nothing happened.
Ayder, whom we reached at midnight, greets us with live Black Sea music.. no elevator. We will stay in a hotel carrying suitcases by cable car.. We came in the middle of the night. I leave myself to the arms of Black Sea music as I left my bag.
I had no curiosity until I went there, but it is not possible to listen to anything else there.. air water requires it. I will remember Ayder with his songs under the non-stop rain.
I go to bed at 6 o’clock in the morning and wake up.. We will photograph the waterfall, but I get up in the morning and see it from my window and take a photo of it and go to bed.. This must be my biggest regret.
It’s hard not to regret seeing the photos taken afterwards.. I release myself to Ayder Plateau in the morning. While walking between the houses, an aunt drops the ball of knitting so that she will look at me.
Just like in the movies. Before I went there, I used to think that authentic clothes were worn for movies, TV shows.. Not at all. Everywhere is like a movie set with their clothes, green plateaus, houses, dialects, and always funny conversations.. It has become too urbanized and commercial in Ayder.
Palovit Waterfall
The real day is today. Crazy waters rushing through the lush green mountains. The scenery is incredibly beautiful and impressive. This is Palovit Waterfall.
I descend to the waterfall from a ladder built into a log and get as close to the water as I can. I meet Palovit Waterfall and soak in its waters. Of course it dries up on me.
Since we didn’t have enough time, I couldn’t swim in the water, but even getting wet was enough.. Because we added a Pokut Plateau to today.
Zil Kale
Zil Kale in Çamlıhemşin district of Rize. 750 meters above sea level. Storm creek flows below. 100 meters above it. Even from far away we can see the magnificent Zil Kale. Museum pass not valid. This was a Laz pilgrimage site.
built in the 14th century. Built by the Trabzon Empire, the castle was used for military purposes during the Ottoman period.. According to the data found in the building, it is thought to have four floors at the time. Every plateau exit would stop by here and pass without looking at the Storm creek flowing madly from the top of the castle below.
Sal and Pokut Plateau
Then Sal Plateau and Pokut Plateau. We rent another car for . The road is so bad. We travel by jumping around in the car, but we never land in the same place.
We laugh and have fun despite everything.. Kadir brother welcomes us on Sal plateau. He tells us they used to have a wedding there, but I wonder how they will see each other through the fog.
Takes us to Pilunç Tea House. We drink real milk and eat rice pudding made from that milk.. We warm up in his stove and are happy with their conversations.
Kadir brother recommends us to walk in Kaçkar Mountains between Sal and Pokut plateaus. I think it was the best hike of my life.. While I threw myself into Palovit Falls from the heat an hour ago, I am now in the Kaçkars in the freezing dew and mist.
I am wet from the dew this time. Pokut does not show us the seas of clouds, but the beautiful air. We have no complaints. We need to get down from the plateau before it gets dark.. The road is dirt and risky.
Borçka Karagöl
Artin We are going to Karagöl in Borçka. There are two Karagöl in Artvin. The other is in Şavşat.. This is virgin. It has not been built yet.
We are dying of fatigue and lack of sleep, and Serap and I fall asleep in the car. While we were sleeping, the vehicle could not pass anywhere and the people in the vehicle got out, but we did not even hear it.. I don’t know how we heard our arrival and got off the vehicle.
We do not pay any entrance fee.. It’s green, untouched, has huge mosquitoes. I was wearing shorts. I don’t know what snacks my legs are.
We are on our way back now. I’m about to pass out from insomnia and tiredness. It will be a long turn around. The taste of the local food we eat at every place we go, the magnificent landscapes we see, the smiling happy people of the region, the miles of roads, the thousand and one shades of green… Countless. The us who come back are so different from the ones who went. I left a part of my heart in this green paradise. I met wonderful people. I think it was my happiest trip..